Hills and Mills - part 2

 A (drinking) visit to Barnoldswick, or Barlick to locals, was recommended by family, whom also have a campervan.

With the promise of a comfortable park up and good micro pubs, we felt it a good excuse to meet said family for a catch up.

A rally at the Rolls-Royce leisure centre (usually £9 per unit per night) forced us to seek an alternative stopover… which was easily done and closer to town.

First bar of note was Hickey’s & friends, just off the main square. This came after a caskless visit to the Cross Keys to watch the Grand National… no winners.

Hickeys & friends bar, Barnoldswick
Hickeys & friends bar, Barnoldswick

What I’d call an aspirational bar with modern decor, offering light bites and cocktails. But they did have cask, Gold by Three Peaks which was in good form.

Inside Hickeys & friends bar, Barnoldswick
Hickeys & friends bar, Barnoldswick

Back towards the town square was the busy Wax & Taps, a record cafe like that in Bradford.

Wax & Taps, Barnoldswick
Wax & Taps, Barnoldswick

Perched on the window seats with something hazy (from cask, I just forgot to note. The other cask option was a Jam Donut by Tiny Rebel), we had a good view of the vibrant town square with locals making the most of the sunshine.

Inside Wax & Taps
Inside Wax & Taps


View of Barnoldswick centre from Wax & Taps
View of the town square 

On the opposite side of the square it was bottled Moorehouses White Witch in Jacs, which mainly specialises in wine and cheeseboards.

Barnoldswick town square

Back to some cask at the GBG entry The Barlick Tap, a typical micropub of one seating area, a bar with 4 cask and 3 keg lines towards the rear and the customary one toilet behind the bar.

The Barlick Tap

Hand pumps in The Barlick Tap
The Stanley’s Pale drank very well

From here we headed to McCulloughs Irish Bar, which pleasingly didn’t adorn the usual Irish pub fixture and fittings.

Low ceilings, rabbit warren layout and a live music basement make an ideal pub, the Flat Cap bitter by Bank Top was also in good form. Unfortunately only one photo was taken…

A chair in McCulloughs Irish Bar

Back to the van for a Silentnight sleep. If you know, you know.

Hills and Mills - part 1

 Easter break means two weeks off work, but with a gig to see Lambrini Girls at the Crescent in York, we had to split the campervan trips.

First is a weekend in Otley and Haworth in West Yorkshire, and East Lancashire if you accept Barnoldswick is over the border.

Between the river Wharfe and the foot of the Chevin, Otley claims to be the original Yorkshire beer town, with over 20 pubs and bars. That’s approximately 1 public house per 570 residents, on this sunny Friday the ‘spoons looked to have its entire quota in the beer garden!

Guided by the GBG24 our first stop was The Junction, a popular pub on a busy bend of the road in and out of town.

Picture of dog in a pub
Stanley enjoyed the free treats

A traditional pub, in respect of interior and beer choice with the Landlord and Kirkstall both drinking well.

Beer pubs
Fine Yorkshire selection, Theakstons wa also available 

Second was another GBG24 entry and camra champion, The Old Cock. Looking like a forever pub it has only operated as a public house since 2010, previously being a cafe.

Picture of the Old Cock in Otley
Tha’s no finer view

With up to 9 cask beers, mostly local and always with at least one dark option, I chose the Big Chief IPA from London based Redemption, which as you’d expect from a pub of this stature was in good form.

Inside of the old cock in otley
A steady stream of customers, seating also available upstairs

Tempting as it was to work through the options, I was keen to visit more of the 20 pubs and bars, bars now being the focus.

North Bar Social is exactly how a seasoned ticker/drinker would expect it to be. Millennials, maybe millennials with kids opting for something in a can (not the kids) rather than the one cask line, but thankfully the kids were sat outside in the decent beer garden and the bloke before got 2 pints of the cask, something by Goose Eye of Keighley or Bingley?

Inside North Bar Social
Inside North Bar Social

The Curious Hop Biere Cafe was next, which makes good use of its space placing tables around a central half partition. The ability to bring pizza from the unit opposite was a nice touch too.

Inside the Curious Hop Biere Cafe
Inside the Curious Hop Biere Cafe

A few more cask options are available here, but not being in the mood for porter or Belgian, it was the Goose Eye Bitter which is a fine example of a bitter, but unfortunately I was disappointed with my follow up keg choice in the West Coast IPA by Abbeydale which just didn’t do the job I wanted a Westy to do.

Cask selection in Curious Hop
3 cask and 10 keg lines in Curious Hop Biere Cafe

Otley Tap House next. A place that offers just about everything, cask, macro lager, food, darts, pool, happy hours and just about every type of person was in there to sample, young, old, lone drinkers, couples, dog walkers.

Otley Tap House
Otley Tap House

Whilst the music was first album Arctics and everything around that, the Durham Citra was a little disappointing.

Discovering Shadow Brewing was a few doors down, we called in to try their cask Bitter and Blonde, which were both fine beers.

With the seating positioned in the double bay windows, the small bar in the middle and 1bbl brewing system at the back, it could be an attractive venue. But unfortunately it felt cold and lacked atmosphere, despite The Stone Roses album playing on vinyl, which is also for sale.

Feeling tired and hungry we cancelled a visit to the now Brew York Horse & Farrier and finished at The Black Horse Hotel.

The Black Horse in Otley

As you’d expected from a Kirkstall pub, the interior is full of original or added features and brewing paraphernalia.

Tiles in the Black Horse, Otley

Cask selection wasn’t just Kirkstall either, with the Stubbee never seen before.

Pump clips in the Black Horse, Otley
Stubbee - Aussie beers, brewed by an Aussie…in Bradford!

However, I had to try the Dissolution because it’s probably one of my favourite cask beers but sadly it wasn’t in fine form from when I had it last at The Tetley.

Just like the beer, the atmosphere wasn’t quite there. Perhaps the Black Horse is more of an afternoon spot, rather than 9pm?

Hand San station
A pet hate - remnants of Covid

Completing 7 pubs and bars we were done, and retired to the campervan for a free nights kip before Barnoldswick.

Otley - easier by plane.

Ps, If you’d like to know where to stay for free in Otley, buy me something from here and I’ll happy reveal.

20p shop in Otley


Whitelocks’

 Since it was a Sunday and potentially quite, we took the opportunity to visit a classic must visit Leeds pub, Whitelocks’.



More excellent tiles


I’d say for the interior if nothing else, but the beer selection is also great. At this point I was beyond beer logging!

And then finishing at the Mary Walloper’s gig, with an overpriced Guinness of course.



Into the Grove

 Foregoing a 20 minute walk to the Garden Gate, we made the short journey to The Grove.

The Grove, Leeds

An ex-John Smiths pub, very similar to the Golden Ball in York. With four rooms, one being centred around the bar, it provides plenty of seating options.

Middle room in the Grove
Middle room

Front room of the Grove
Front room (Lounge?)

And a decent selection of real ales, without adding craft keg…yet?

The Grove drinks menu

The Small World and Wensleydale were both in fine form.

Oh and the tiles.

Pub tiles

We’re sure these are the same ones as in the Golden Ball.

I think the Grove is on my list of favourites.

The Grove by night


The Tetley

 What better way to celebrate Leeds’ brewing history, than Leeds’ current biggest* brewery to operate a bar (pub) in the old Tetley offices.

The Tetley, Leeds

A magnificent building, inside and out. The food looked good, especially the Sunday lunch. Maybe another time of us.

But the Kirkstall Dissolution was glorious, stiff competition for Jaipur. Cask Tetley is also available.


*Kirkstall are possibly the largest brewer in Leeds. Not fact checked, just my assumption.

A night on the tiles

 After the aborted holiday in Rye and a busy month of work, we finally made it out.

A St Patrick’s day gig by the Mary Wallopers in Leeds, provided a good excuse for some pre-drinks in a few new and old pubs.

First up, an excellent pint of Jaipur in The Adelphi.

The Adelphi, Leeds

A fairly standard selection.


I’m a sucker for pub tiles.

Pub tiles in the Adelphi


Pubs of Rye

 Loaded with ibuprofen and smelling of tiger balm, it was time for a dose of the best pain relief, real ale.


First up, an earthy Long Man Best at The Ship Inn. An attractive food led pub, but at 4pm it was just a handful of drinkers.

Long Man Best in a Tribute glass

Moving on to The Standard for a disappointing ESB by Three Legs, either it was on the turn or I wasn’t keen on the finishing hops.


A cosy place that went from empty to full within the 40 minutes we were there. Clearly popular for the food.




A quick half of Romney Best made up for the ESB.

Further up The Mint was Old Bell, the oldest pub in Rye for a pint of Harvey’s Sussex Best, which drank very well.



 Another cosy, food led pub. Stanley enjoyed his scampi!



Just to ensure a sound night sleep through the pain, we finished back at the Waterworks. So far this year, it’s the only pub I’ve visited twice.


Unfortunately, we had to curtail our trip due to my bad back and drove 6 hours straight home.